Effect of Plasma Treatment on Moisture Management Properties and Drying Behavior of Polyester and Blend Fabrics for Sportswear Application

The hygienic and comfort properties of fabrics for clothing are basically determined by their electrifiability and ability to absorb moisture, i.e. the hygroscopicity and capillarity, which are quantitative characteristics of the hydrophilicity of materials. Unfortunately, the most common synthetic fibre, Polyester exhibits high electrifiability and low hydrophilicity, which makes it unsuitable for fabrication of fabrics with properties close to cellulosic fibre and significantly restricts the area of their application. However, now a days, it is more preferable in the active sportswear due to its excellent physical properties like abrasion resistance, strength etc. and low cost. The present study aims at increasing the hydrophilicity of polyester and polyester blends by combination of plasma modification and chemical treatment. Surface modification of the developed fabrics is carried out by di-electric barrier discharge plasma in presence of air and subsequently the fabrics are subjected to chemical treatment to impart hydrophilic property to make it suitable for active sportswear. The moisture management properties, drying rate and air permeability, abrasion resistance etc. of these fabrics are evaluated.


Current Trends in Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering
weave pattern, the cover factor, fabric weight etc. [7]. Das et al. [8] also described that moisture management can be enhanced through a suitable chemical treatment or coating [8].
It is evident that fiber type, yarn properties, fabric structure, finishing treatments affects the clothing comfort. The use of blended fibre combinations in sportswear has grown in the past decade as brands attempt to improve function and comfort using different fiber blends. The use of blending technologies and the chemical finishing available for sportswear will continue to provide a source of innovation for sportswear products. Therefore, the present study aims to investigate the moisture management properties and drying rate of commercial garments, and 16 knitted fabrics developed for sportswear application, composed of plasma and chemically modified polyester and polyester blend fabrics.

Materials
Polyester filament yarn (85 denier), Cotton yarn (Count 60 Ne), Lycra (20 denier), three sport fabrics were procured from specialty sportswear store. Single Layer interlock knitted fabric with lycra (Spandex) and polyester was developed. Lycra filament yarn was added to the single layer knitted polyester fabric to provide stretchability to the fabric. Similarly, Double Jersey interlocks and bi-layer interlocks knitted fabrics were also developed. Construction parameters of Single layer and double layer developed knitted fabrics are mentioned in Table  1. And construction parameters of commercial garments are mentioned in Table 2.

Plasma treatment of developed fabrics
To study the effect of plasma treatment on moisture management properties and drying behavior of knitted fabrics, a Di-electric Barrier Discharge (DBD) plasma chamber was employed for plasma treatment of polyester fabric at different duration keeping voltage and electrode spacing constant. Air was used as non-polymerizing gas for plasma treatment. Undyed microfilament polyester fabric of sample size 40cm width and 50cm length was spread between the two electrodes and then plasma treatment was carried out. The treatments were given only on one side of the fabric i.e., inner side of the garment to be worn. Table 3 indicates the details of plasma trials conducted on single layer and double layer knitted fabrics. Table 3: Plasma trials conducted on polyester and polyester blend fabrics.

S. No.
Sample Code Duration of plasma treatment in mins (at 4.0KV Voltage and 3mm Electrode Spacing)

Application of moisture management finish
To remove the impurities like lubricants and antistatic agents, 100% polyester and Modal/Cotton, Modal/Polyester woven and knitted fabrics were scoured using 1gpl nonionic surfactant (Archroma) at 65 °C for 30min followed by rinsing, hydro extraction and drying at room temperature. These scoured fabrics were then used for moisture management finish. 30gpl Hydrophillic Softener (Archroma) which is a modified polyester copolymer based nonionic chemical; was used for finishing of polyester fabrics with 60% weight pickup. The trials were conducted using pad -dry -cure method on laboratory pad dry cure machine (R. B. Electronics and Electrical Pvt. Ltd., Mumbai); curing was carried out at 120 °C for 4min.

Moisture management properties
Fabric liquid moisture transport properties in multi dimensions, called moisture management properties significantly influence human perceptions of moisture sensation. Moisture management tester has been developed by SDL Atlas to evaluate textile moisture management properties. This method can be used to quantitatively measure liquid moisture transfer in one step in a fabric in multiple directions. Moisture spreads on both surface of the fabric and transfer from one surface to the opposite. Here ten indices are introduced to characterize the liquid moisture management properties of fabric. It measures electrical conductivity changes as a test solution migrates across the top of, through, and across the bottom of the test specimen. Factors affecting this movement include fabric water repellency, water resistance, and water absorption, and fiber and yarn wicking properties. Perspiration is mimicked with TM 195. The results obtained with this test method are based on water resistance, water repellency and water absorption characteristics of the fabric structure, including the fabric's geometric and internal structure along with the wicking characteristics of its fibers and yarns.
How to cite this article: Mayur

Moisture management tester indices
The indices of the MMT that are used to characterize the moisture management properties of a fabric are as mentioned below: i.
The OWTC is the difference of accumulative moisture content between the two surfaces of fabric. The OWTC reflects the oneway liquid transport capacity from the top (inner) surface to the bottom (outer) surface of the fabric Table 4. The OMMC is an index indicating the overall capacity of the fabric to manage the transport of liquid moisture, which includes three aspects: One-way liquid transport capacity; c. Maximum moisture spreading speed on the bottom surface [11,12].
The moisture management properties of the commercial garments and developed fabrics in grades are mentioned in Table 5.
How to cite this article: Mayur       From the Table 5, it is observed that 5minute plasma treatment is optimum as giving higher one way transport index and overall moisture management capability grade in almost all the fabrics. It can be seen that OWTC grade and OMMC grades are higher for plasma pre-modified followed by chemical treated samples compared to untreated and commercial fabric samples indicating suitability of developed fabrics for effective moisture management properties required in sportswear application.

Drying rate
This drying rate test determines the drying rate of textile fabrics based on the evaporation rate at standard atmospheric conditions. This testing is based on measuring the weight of water content which is applied on the fabric for a particular time period by using a weighing balance and with drying rate software connected to it. Table 6 elaborates drying rate of 3 commercial fabrics and 16 developed fabrics. Drying rate of commercial garment is in the range of 0.29-0.38%/min.   Figure 3 shows that untreated Polyester fabric shows drying rate of 0.60 and 0.43%/min whereas Polyester/Lycra and Polyester/Cotton blend fabric shows drying rate of 0.47 and 0.43%/min respectively. From the results it is observed that after plasma and chemical treatment drying rate of Polyester, Polyester/Lycra and Polyester/Cotton blend decreases. It is found that with the increase in plasma treatment time, the drying rate (%) per minute decrease. It may be due to the more surface roughening of Polyester fabric resulting in more absorption of the hydrophilic chemicals. But even after considerable drop in drying rate of developed fabric their drying behavior are comparable with commercial garment. This indicates that plasma and chemically modified Polyester and Polyester blends show low drying rate compared to untreated fabrics but still they are suitable for sportswear application when compared with commercial garment.

Conclusion
Sportswear is a very vast and challenging field in which required functionality can be designed by suitable choice of raw materials, structure and geometry of fibers, yarns and fabrics, surface modification and garment assembly techniques. Moisture management properties like sweat absorption, sweat dissipation and faster drying are the primary desirable functions of high active sportswear which affects the comfort sensation of a player during a game. To achieve these properties, Polyester and Polyester/Lycra and Polyester/Cotton blend fabrics are treated with air plasma followed by a chemical treatment to enhance hydyophilicity. Plasma treatments help in surface roughening of Polyester. Plasma pre-modified knitted Polyester fabrics are given hydrophilic chemical treatment. The plasma treatment time of 5min followed by chemical treatment is found to give the optimum results with respect to moisture management properties and drying rate. The study indicates that after plasma and finishing with hydrophilic finishing chemical; the Polyester fabrics shows enhance moisture management properties with moderate drying arte which makes it suitable for sportswear application. These modified and light weight moisture management fabrics will be helpful to keep the sportsman free from uncomfortable clinginess and it can also improve the performance of sportsperson.